In Mexico, we say that red is the color of passion, the essence of love. This color has an effect on people, and while scientists are divided on whether it’s primitive behavior or not, society agrees that this color emits confidence, lust, passion, and dominance. In general, people wearing red are seen as more attractive compared to those wearing other colors.
If I could pick only one red gemstone to wear for the rest of my life, Ruby wins hands down. Rubies are as hard as sapphires (same mineral), have one of the most mesmerizing and distinctive red tones among gemstones, and are rare to find (at least good quality ones).
Thanks to the 4Cs, we can identify a good quality ruby. I will break down the must-knows so you can buy confidently and avoid shady deals (and dealers).
Story
It all starts with the color. Whenever we blush, red depicts attraction, passion, embarrassment, and even anger as our body temperature rises. We have an affinity with the color since it also shares the color of our blood. The ruby is considered the king of gemstones with an authentic reason. There is no other gemstone with as bold a color, that contrasts diamonds on a piece and stands out as a center stone to crown the design.
The word Ruby comes from the latin word for red “ruber”. In ancient times, it was considered a royal gemstone that kings and queens used to adorn their most valued pieces. In the bible, rubies are considered the most precious of stones and are compared to beauty and wisdom in terms of appearance and value.
Hindus called the ruby “ratnaraj” which means “the king of gems”; in Indian iconography, the ruby is closest to the sun, so they attribute it to have a fiery, wild, nature. Burmese soldiers believe that wearing the stone would protect them from harm, and some went as far as incrusting the stone in their bodies to become “invincible”.
Nowadays, it has become a gemstone coveted by its color, hardness, and price, and, while it will not protect you from physical harm (do not test it), it will definitely boost your confidence and improve your looks with its radiance and luster. Ruby is the birthstone for the month of July, so there’s another excuse to get one for your collection.
Characteristics
Ruby is a variety of the mineral corundum, which is crystalline aluminum oxide. The red color is provided by traces of chromium, the more chromium the redder the ruby. In the instance that corundum has traces of iron or titanium instead of chromium, the color would be blue and, instead of being called ruby, it would be called, you guessed it, sapphire!
Since color is what separates these two gemstones, their hardness is the same, a 9 in the Mohs scale of mineral hardness (out of 10). This translates into a scratch-resistant stone that can be worn every day without worries. The only thing that can scratch it is something harder, such as moissanite or diamond, but it is unlikely you will be touching many of those with your rubies.
Color
The most sought-after tone of red is called pigeon blood, which is an intense red like blood. Color affects price more than clarity, which is secondary in a ruby. Natural rubies are more valuable than treated or synthetic ones. When the color of corundum is on the pinker side, it could be named ‘pink sapphire’ instead of ruby. Dealers say that the name depends on whether you are the buyer or the seller (common joke). However, this naming convention regarding color generates confusion, since the most reputable laboratories disagree on whether a pink corundum is a pink sapphire or a pink ruby. GIA catalogues corundum stones with dominant red hues as rubies, and with pink hues as sapphires.
Color is divided into three categories: hue, saturation, and tone. Hue refers to the aspect of red in a ruby, whether it is a vivid red or a softer color. There are usually hues of other colors in a ruby, whether it is a lighter or a darker form of red. However, the dominant (more widespread) tone of red is called the primary hue and the others secondary hues. Saturation refers to the intensity of the color in a gemstone, the more colorful it looks, the more saturation. Tone determines how bright or dull the color in a gemstone looks.
To make it simple, in terms of hue, ask yourself “what color is the stone?”; in terms of saturation, ask yourself “how much of this color is in the stone?”; in terms of tone, ask yourself “how dull or bright is the stone?”. The most valuable rubies come with a grade of vivid red, not too dark, and not too light. Red followed by purplish red (a secondary hue), with high saturation and medium tone are the most desired.
It is important to buy rubies from reputable sources and even then, it is wise to buy stones that come with a grading report from a reputable laboratory. It is easy to fall prey to shady business practices and buy a treated or synthetic gem in place of a natural one.
Clarity
Most gemstones come with inclusions, which are mineral deposits inside them. In the case of rubies, these are present, I dare say, in all stones. I have yet to see a ruby without inclusions. Therefore, rubies are inspected with the naked eye for inclusions, just like emeralds. The most prominent inclusion in a ruby is called silk, which are intersecting needles formed by the mineral rutile inside the stone. The classification for rubies’ clarity is the same as with diamonds (see diamond clarity article), using the range from VVS1 to I3 (Only diamonds can be Flawless and Internally Flawless).
Because some gemstones come naturally included. GIA uses three different types according to the gemstones’ natural inclusions. Type 1 which includes stones such as morganite and tanzanite, Type 2 which includes corundum (rubies and sapphires) and alexandrite, and Type 3 which includes emerald and tourmaline. Combining the type with the standard clarity grading gives us more precision when reading a grading report. A VVS ruby will have inclusions under magnification but be eye clean without it.
If the inclusion is visible to the naked eye and reduces the brightness of the stone, then its value will be lower than those that are less visible and allow for higher light performance. There could be big inclusions that reach the surface and could fracture the stone over time, something you should be wary of when inspecting a ruby for purchase.
Cut, Carat weight and price
The most common cut in a ruby is the cushion and oval, because of the way the mineral is shaped when mined. These cuts maximize the size of the ruby and allow for bigger pieces, since rough ruby stones are expensive and gem cutters try to keep as much of the stone as possible. You can find rubies cut in other shapes but only in smaller pieces.
Rubies over 1.00 carat are rare and the price per carat rises dramatically in bigger rubies. Smaller rubies fetch much lower prices. The price per carat depends on the quality of the ruby, so a one carat high-quality ruby can go for $10,000.00 – $12,000.00 USD and even more. You can also find a 1.00 carat ruby for $200.00 USD with lackluster quality, it all depends on the quality of the stone.
Is it for you?
Colored gemstones bring life to outfits and talk about your style and preference. Sometimes we like to feel desired and passionate, sometimes empowered and dominant. Whenever you want to express those feelings with looks, more than words (you cannot go telling everyone how you feel, specially at social events, it would be awkward), a ruby is your best spokesperson.
Normally you would wear ruby pendants in contrast with your outfit to make it stand out (picture a white or black dress). In the case of rings, you can be daring and match your outfit with your ruby. Ruby stones bigger than a carat can stand on their own, but otherwise they look amazing with a small diamond halo and set in yellow or white gold. Pair your pendant with ruby earrings to make a bolder statement.
Conclusion
The king of gemstones has enjoyed its popularity throughout the centuries, and it continues rising in status and price as Burmese (pigeon blood) rubies are scarce and heavily desired. Any jewelry lover should have at least one piece in their collection since rubies portray feelings other gemstones cannot. Rubies stand on their own when paired with the right outfit and are centerpieces. This means you don’t need anything else taking attention away from them.
When shopping for rubies always check the 4Cs and, if you’re inexperienced, look for the stone’s matching certificate from a reputable gemology laboratory. Make sure that the weight, color and picture match the stone you’re looking at. Depending on your budget, always go for the best stone you can afford, not necessarily the biggest one. Remember that color is the most important factor, followed by weight.
Would you consider buying a ruby after reading the article? What outfits do you think would look best with a stunning ruby ring? Let us know in the comment section and stay tuned for the next articles!
Contact us by e-mail using our form below or sign up to leave a comment at the bottom of the page.}
